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AUTUMN 2018 COMPOSED
After 25 years of trying, the fashion world has suddenly woken up to the imperatives of sustainability, environmental control, wastage and recycling. Technology and synthetics were seen as the enemy, the propagators of stuffocation and fast obsolescence. But not anymore! If we are to really confront the terrible impact of consumption, then we not only have to tackle sustainability and recycling issues in the processing and manufacturing stages but combine them with winning aesthetics at the design stage. To do this, we need to believe in innovation and technology as much as reduction and recyclability as the ways forward to what we most love and aspire to, to fabrics that are desirable, inclusive and serviceable and garments that make us look beautiful. As we say in our Fabric Preview S/S 2020, where we list nine ways to achieve this, we should never forget that its aesthetics that really enable us to connect with what we wear. Technology provides the freedom to create anything we want: our values set the boundaries to make it human and sustainable. It’s a wonderful new combination, as we set out to show in our Lifestyle pages, ‘The Next Phase in Making and Creating’.
TEXTILE VIEW MAGAZINE No 124
WINTER 2018: VERDANT
“A feeling of new growth within the context of Winter”
ARE WE REALLY CHANGING?
The environmental impact of production and consumption systems is central to any contemporary conversation about fashion and design. After more than 25 years of debate, suspicion and indecision, companies are slowly rising to the challenge of creating sustainable products. The question is: why did it take so long to arrive at this point and can the industry really get it to work right through the textile platform?
The reason behind this change of heart lies in the combination of a top-down approach by governments across the world, enforcing an environmental agenda embracing everything from plastic drinking straws to air and water pollution, with a groundswell of public opinion demanding and taking action on everything from fracking to fur. The anvil of consumer pressure is reflected not just in demands for transparency but also in the rise of veganism, company boycotts, interest in ethical indexes and, most significantly, in the past few months, decelerated consumption, the reasons for which go far beyond questions of austerity and economy.
And this pressure will only grow as Generation Z joins the ranks of the Millennials in the push for ‘responsible’ living. Their heroes are not high-street multiples or status-laden brands but change leaders such as Stella McCartney, who have placed ‘guilt-free’ principles at the heart of their brands. But, McCartney is not alone. More and more companies are seeing that sustainability and environmental awareness make sense not only morally but also economically. That’s not just because of possible savings in energy, water and processing costs, but also because sustainability is an asset to long-term corporate image and market value.
Lifestyle: principles of progress
We live in times of rapid change: this can be at once exhilarating and frightening. Wonderful new things happen, but we also see that resistance against anything new can take on extreme forms.
Dressing the Soul
While we seek the new and reject the ageing in today’s society, Birgitta de
Vos invites us on an armchair journey embracing ageing and discovering ageless beauty with her latest book Dressing the Soul | Ageless Beauty.
Season in review
Womenswear designer colours
Designers in all four fashion capitals embracing women and gender-fluidity of every colour, age, size and creed in a celebration of diverse femininity.
Womenswear designer fabrics, silhouettes and styling details
A new elegance is emerging on the catwalk: free of restraint, women can show their power without dressing like warriors.
Season in focus
The latest additions to womenswear collections with pointers to S/S 2020
Textiles is echoing the world in its topsy-turvy rush from confidence and optimism to uncertainty and pessimism. And that’s a shame, because fabric manufacturers continue to be alchemists.
Womenswear fabric and colour forecast
Exquisite butterflies with their unusual colourways and striking patterns that adorn their wings are pure inspiration for textile design.
Menswear colours, styling and fabrics
Dark and moody palettes reflect an anxious age where in the face of ongoing social and political unrest and uncertainty, confrontational angst has become the norm.
Accessories & trimmings forecast and inspirations
A duality that mirrors slow industry and is manifestly anti-consumerist, a duality that plays between hand-craftsmanship and technical functionality, a game of minimal and abrupt decorative contradictions.
Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling
A lightness and buoyancy permeates our thinking for the summer season. We look with fresh eyes at the issues that are fundamental going forward: things that matter to us and indeed the planet.
Knitwear yarn, structure and colour forecasts
A frazzled fashion for alternative ways to dress plays with textures spun out of a gilded sparkle.
City view: London, Paris, NY and Seattle